Exercise R Us

Question:

Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections of 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the handwiring a bit. I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking for! They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but it rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They also have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I received an email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have been shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day or so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them a good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone else using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com Mikey

Response:

Whoa, pretty friggin’ cool!  Nice find.  I think I’ll order one, after I hear back from the dudes who build ‘em. LV – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, > I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when > I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections of > 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in > indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I > could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check > voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of > being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side > quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my > boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would > allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the > handwiring a bit. > I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product > called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking for! > They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but it > rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They also > have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I > ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I received an > email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have been > shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day or > so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them a > good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone else > using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com > Mikey

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, > I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when > I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections of > 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in > indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I > could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check > voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of > being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side > quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my > boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would > allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the > handwiring a bit. > I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product > called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking for! > They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but it > rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They also > have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I > ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I received an > email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have been > shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day or > so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them a > good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone else > using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com > Mikey

Cool. Mine cost about $35 to build 17 years ago. Nice find. John

Response:

Cradles and Bassinets These mini cribs are made to keep newborns close to the parents’ bed or to simply offer parents an additional place to safely put a baby down to sleep. Cradles rock back and forth and either sit on the floor or hang from hooks on a stand; bassinets don’t rock but are often on wheels, so you can move your baby from room to room. Cradles and bassinets can provide a small, secure-feeling space for babies fresh from their small, secure-feeling wombs. And most look incredibly charming. But you certainly can put a newborn baby in a full-size crib and save yourself the $100 to $400 a cradle costs (bassinets run about $50 to $150)–as well as $50 or so in miniature sheets. In addition, because cradles have the ability to rock, you need to be aware that they can tip to one side when the baby moves around, potentially leaving the baby pressed against a blanket or bumper and thereby at risk for suffocation. If you do opt to buy a cradle or bassinet, there are a number of things to look for:      * If the bassinet is made of wicker, be sure it doesn’t have any sharp edges or points on the inside.      * Cradle bars (or slats) should not be more than 2 3/8 inches apart.      * Never use a thin, soft mattress that is too small for the cradle, as it can cause suffocation if the baby’s face gets wedged in the gap between the side of the cradle and the edge of the mattress.      * Cradles should have rocking pins, which help to prevent them from tipping to one side. If your cradle doesn’t have a pin to stop the rocking motion, you can jerry-rig one. If the cradle sits on the floor, just put two small pieces of wood under the rocker after your baby has fallen asleep. If the cradle hangs from a stand, you can tie the cradle to its base to prevent it from rocking while your infant’s sleeping–making sure, of course, that no strings are left within her reach. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends that you follow manufacturer’s guidelines on the weight and size of babies who can safely use these products and offers the following safety considerations: Bassinets and Cradles     1. Bassinet/Cradle has a sturdy bottom and a wide base for stability.     2. Bassinet/Cradle has smooth surfaces–no protruding staples or other hardware that injure the baby.     3. Legs have strong, effective locks to prevent folding while in use.     4. Mattress is firm and fits snugly. http://www.drspock.com/article/0,1510,6137,00.html http://www.adirondackfurniture.com/cradle.html http://www.dreamtimebaby.com/cradbas.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Whoa, pretty friggin’ cool!  Nice find.  I think I’ll order one, after > I hear back from the dudes who build ‘em. > LV > Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, > I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when > I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections of > 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in > indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I > could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check > voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of > being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side > quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my > boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would > allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the > handwiring a bit. > I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product > called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking for! > They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but it > rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They also > have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I > ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I received an > email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have been > shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day or > so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them a > good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone else > using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com > Mikey

Response:

> I’ll be able to give them a > good workout this week and will post my findings to the group.

PLEASE DO!!!!   Specifically, I’d like to know how long it takes to set up for each amp (like going from a Twin to a JCM 800 and back to a Princeton, e.g.)   When in the "board-up" position, how much room is there underneath for tubes?  How ’bout tubes with in-line bias probes? (mine add about 2") This could be really cool!!!! –Mike  Mike Schway           |   [Picture your favorite quote here]  

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, > I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when > I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections > of 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in > indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I > could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check > voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of > being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side > quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my > boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would > allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the > handwiring a bit. > I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product > called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking > for! They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, > but it rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. > They also have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and > PCB. I ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I > received an email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board > cradles have been shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them > in the next day or so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be > able to give them a good workout this week and will post my findings to > the group. Anyone else using these?  Here’s their URL: > www.chassi-swing.com > Mikey

Correction to the above. The board cradles will flip 360 degree’s, but the chassis cradles don’t. They’ll allow for a nice working angle, but aren’t able to rotate an entire 360. No problem there for me but I needed to make the correction after Jeff at chassi-swing emailed me. Mikey

Response:

> Whoa, pretty friggin’ cool!  Nice find.  I think I’ll order one, after > I hear back from the dudes who build ‘em. > LV

Yeah Baby! I’m thinking that these may be able to save me some time when handwiring. Should also be a big help when it comes to inspecting solder joints and such. Maybe they’ll also help my lower back as well!  LOL Jeff’s been very responsive, I don’t think you’ll have to wait too long to get a reply. Mikey

Response:

These cradles…..will ROCK!  LOL

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Cradles and Bassinets > These mini cribs are made to keep newborns close to the parents’ bed or to > simply offer parents an additional place to safely put a baby down to > sleep. Cradles rock back and forth and either sit on the floor or hang > from hooks on a stand; bassinets don’t rock but are often on wheels, so > you can move your baby from room to room. > Cradles and bassinets can provide a small, secure-feeling space for babies > fresh from their small, secure-feeling wombs. And most look incredibly > charming. But you certainly can put a newborn baby in a full-size crib and > save yourself the $100 to $400 a cradle costs (bassinets run about $50 to > $150)–as well as $50 or so in miniature sheets. In addition, because > cradles have the ability to rock, you need to be aware that they can tip > to one side when the baby moves around, potentially leaving the baby > pressed against a blanket or bumper and thereby at risk for suffocation. > If you do opt to buy a cradle or bassinet, there are a number of things to > look for: >     * If the bassinet is made of wicker, be sure it doesn’t have any sharp > edges or points on the inside. >     * Cradle bars (or slats) should not be more than 2 3/8 inches apart. >     * Never use a thin, soft mattress that is too small for the cradle, as > it can cause suffocation if the baby’s face gets wedged in the gap between > the side of the cradle and the edge of the mattress. >     * Cradles should have rocking pins, which help to prevent them from > tipping to one side. If your cradle doesn’t have a pin to stop the rocking > motion, you can jerry-rig one. If the cradle sits on the floor, just put > two small pieces of wood under the rocker after your baby has fallen > asleep. If the cradle hangs from a stand, you can tie the cradle to its > base to prevent it from rocking while your infant’s sleeping–making sure, > of course, that no strings are left within her reach. > The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends that you follow > manufacturer’s guidelines on the weight and size of babies who can safely > use these products and offers the following safety considerations: > Bassinets and Cradles >    1. Bassinet/Cradle has a sturdy bottom and a wide base for stability. >    2. Bassinet/Cradle has smooth surfaces–no protruding staples or other > hardware that injure the baby. >    3. Legs have strong, effective locks to prevent folding while in use. >    4. Mattress is firm and fits snugly. > http://www.drspock.com/article/0,1510,6137,00.html > http://www.adirondackfurniture.com/cradle.html > http://www.dreamtimebaby.com/cradbas.html > Whoa, pretty friggin’ cool!  Nice find.  I think I’ll order one, after > I hear back from the dudes who build ‘em. > LV >> Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until >> now, >> I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis >> when >> I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections >> of >> 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in >> indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that >> I >> could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check >> voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of >> being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side >> quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my >> boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that >> would >> allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up >> the >> handwiring a bit. >> I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a >> product >> called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking >> for! >> They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but >> it >> rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They >> also >> have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I >> ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I >> received an >> email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have >> been >> shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day >> or >> so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them >> a >> good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone >> else >> using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com >> Mikey

Response:

> Cool. > Mine cost about $35 to build 17 years ago. > Nice find. > John

They look really good, solid hardwood, should take a beating. I should get them in the next day or so, and I already have a chassis and a couple of boards waiting, so we’ll see how they do. If they can save me some time then they’ll definitely be worth it to me. And if I don’t have to constantly lean as far over my work bench, I’m sure my back will be thanking them as well. Mikey

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ll be able to give them a > good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. > PLEASE DO!!!! > Specifically, I’d like to know how long it takes to set up for each amp > (like going from a Twin to a JCM 800 and back to a Princeton, e.g.) > When in the "board-up" position, how much room is there underneath for > tubes?  How ’bout tubes with in-line bias probes? (mine add about 2") > This could be really cool!!!! > –Mike

I’ll definitely let you know how they do. As soon as I saw them, I kinda knew that they were what I’d been looking for. You shouldn’t have any tube clearance issues, based on this pic: http://www.chassi-swing.com/main/products.asp?i=cc2b Jeff’s site mentions a 4-1/4" tube clearance, but since you can set the cradle on an angle like in the pic, you can have the tubes angled away from your bench. Or, I guess you could put a block or two underneath, to raise the entire cradle assembly up as much as you need. Mikey

Response:

> Correction to the above. The board cradles will flip 360 degree’s, but the > chassis cradles don’t. They’ll allow for a nice working angle, but aren’t > able to rotate an entire 360. No problem there for me but I needed to make > the correction after Jeff at chassi-swing emailed me.

I’m a little confused about the chassis vs board swing.  From the pix, it looks like the PCB cradle has a different base as the chassis swing, yet the board holder is an option on the big unit.  Let us know. You’re mentioning saving your lower back.  I’m looking forward (no pun intended) to it helping my neck and shoulders! Dang, this is gonna be good! (I hope, I hope!) –Mike  Mike Schway           |   [Picture your favorite quote here]  

Response:

> I’m a little confused about the chassis vs board swing.  From the pix, > it looks like the PCB cradle has a different base as the chassis swing, > yet the board holder is an option on the big unit.  Let us know.

The cradle that holds the boards is an attachment. It uses the same base. You would just remove the chassis cradle from the base, and substitute the board cradle in its place. > You’re mentioning saving your lower back.  I’m looking forward (no pun > intended) to it helping my neck and shoulders! > Dang, this is gonna be good! (I hope, I hope!) > –Mike

I’m hoping as well!  LOL  Just being able to angle the chassis so that I can get to the board without having to bend all the way over my bench to get inside the chassis will be a big help. Plus, there’s some soldering that I want to do while the board is either angled or in a more vertical position. I’m thinking there may be several benefits to this setup. I’ll just have to try them to see how everything works. I’ll give em’ a good workout and will post my findings so other builders will know what’s up before deciding to order. Mikey

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Cool. >Mine cost about $35 to build 17 years ago. >Nice find. >John > They look really good, solid hardwood, should take a beating. I should get > them in the next day or so, and I already have a chassis and a couple of > boards waiting, so we’ll see how they do. If they can save me some time then > they’ll definitely be worth it to me. And if I don’t have to constantly lean > as far over my work bench, I’m sure my back will be thanking them as well. > > Mikey

Indispensable for fast, efficient work on large projects. John

Response:

> They look really good, solid hardwood, should take a beating. I should > get them in the next day or so, and I already have a chassis and a couple > of boards waiting, so we’ll see how they do. If they can save me some > time then they’ll definitely be worth it to me. And if I don’t have to > constantly lean as far over my work bench, I’m sure my back will be > thanking them as well. > Mikey > Indispensable for fast, efficient work on large projects. > John

I remember when I got my digital soldering station. Man, what a timesaver that was! And soldering quality rose significantly. Hopefully, these cradles will give the same type of benefits. Mikey

Response:

There’s a pharmacists’ strike in Mulay’s town, obviously….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Cradles and Bassinets >These mini cribs are made to keep newborns close to the parents’ bed or to simply offer parents an additional place to safely >put a baby down to sleep. Cradles rock back and forth and either sit on the floor or hang from hooks on a stand; bassinets don’t >rock but are often on wheels, so you can move your baby from room to room. >Cradles and bassinets can provide a small, secure-feeling space for babies fresh from their small, secure-feeling wombs. And >most look incredibly charming. But you certainly can put a newborn baby in a full-size crib and save yourself the $100 to $400 a >cradle costs (bassinets run about $50 to $150)–as well as $50 or so in miniature sheets. In addition, because cradles have the >ability to rock, you need to be aware that they can tip to one side when the baby moves around, potentially leaving the baby >pressed against a blanket or bumper and thereby at risk for suffocation. >If you do opt to buy a cradle or bassinet, there are a number of things to look for: >     * If the bassinet is made of wicker, be sure it doesn’t have any sharp edges or points on the inside. >     * Cradle bars (or slats) should not be more than 2 3/8 inches apart. >     * Never use a thin, soft mattress that is too small for the cradle, as it can cause suffocation if the baby’s face gets >wedged in the gap between the side of the cradle and the edge of the mattress. >     * Cradles should have rocking pins, which help to prevent them from tipping to one side. If your cradle doesn’t have a pin >to stop the rocking motion, you can jerry-rig one. If the cradle sits on the floor, just put two small pieces of wood under the >rocker after your baby has fallen asleep. If the cradle hangs from a stand, you can tie the cradle to its base to prevent it >from rocking while your infant’s sleeping–making sure, of course, that no strings are left within her reach. >The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends that you follow manufacturer’s guidelines on the weight and size of >babies who can safely use these products and offers the following safety considerations: >Bassinets and Cradles >    1. Bassinet/Cradle has a sturdy bottom and a wide base for stability. >    2. Bassinet/Cradle has smooth surfaces–no protruding staples or other hardware that injure the baby. >    3. Legs have strong, effective locks to prevent folding while in use. >    4. Mattress is firm and fits snugly. >http://www.drspock.com/article/0,1510,6137,00.html >http://www.adirondackfurniture.com/cradle.html >http://www.dreamtimebaby.com/cradbas.html > Whoa, pretty friggin’ cool!  Nice find.  I think I’ll order one, after > I hear back from the dudes who build ‘em. > LV >> Just thought I’d share a cool product that I stumbled upon. Up until now, >> I’ve been using a pair of homemade chassis blocks to hold the chassis when >> I’m wiring up the circuit, switches, etc. These were just short sections of >> 2×4’s, screwed to the same lengths of 4×4’s, and then covered in >> indoor/outdoor carpet. These would hold the chassis high enough so that I >> could install the power and preamp tubes, which would allow me to check >> voltages, bias and so on. But, I’ve always wanted to have some method of >> being able to move the chassis around or flip it over to the other side >> quickly. I can do it manually, but it’s just a pain. Same thing with my >> boards. I just wanted something that would hold the board, but that would >> allow me to move the board around to get to the other side to speed up the >> handwiring a bit. >> I was surfing the net one evening and came across this link for a product >> called chassi-swing. This is one of those things that I’ve been looking for! >> They make a hardwood chassis cradle that not only holds the chassis, but it >> rotates so you can get to the other side of the chassis quickly. They also >> have an attachment that will hold circuit boards, both PTP and PCB. I >> ordered a full set of cradles for both the chassis and boards. I received an >> email from Jeff at chassi-swing that my chassis and board cradles have been >> shipped and are on their way. I should be getting them in the next day or >> so. Since I just started another DRRI rebuild, I’ll be able to give them a >> good workout this week and will post my findings to the group. Anyone else >> using these?  Here’s their URL: www.chassi-swing.com >> Mikey

Response:

Chicago pharmacists strike Walgreens drugstores Some 1,200 pharmacists at 400 Chicago-area Walgreen Co. stores walked off the job July 7 to protest low staffing levels and increased workloads that they believe could endanger the safety of customer-patients. According to the National Pharmacists Association