Exercise R Us » Exercising » Exhaust system – fix it myself?
Question:
the original stainless on my 88 Aries rusted out 3 years ago and I found out only after my resonator was "missing". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 91 Shadow. I have replaced the exhaust (from behind the cat converter > to the muffler pipe) three times. The NAPA exhaust rusted out after 2 years > twice. The hardest problem was the pipe off the Cat converter exit pipe. This > required hitting, hack sawing, and peeling and little brute force. with > pipes so rusty it actually comes off reasonably. I would agree it is a two > hour job. > My complaint, is on my 85 turbo glh omni, Chrysler put a stainless exhaust. > it never failed. (it was totaled out at 100K when I hit the back end of a > stopped car). My 89 Gcaravan at 180k still has the original pipes though the > mufffler let go this year. Why did Chrysler put a cheap exhaust on this car?!! >Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. >Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. >Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. >> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took >> it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust >> system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering >> doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work >> is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll >> be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer >> my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going >> to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: >> If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the >> intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, >> so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier >> (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace >> the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the >> intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have >> if something else goes ‘down the road’? >> The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does >> that indicate that it is rather difficult? >> Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? >> What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it >> difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to >> the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d >> have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, >> under the car?) >> Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job >> might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Bryan Cope > remove *nojunk* to email
– Charlie B. Han ‘81 Ford Thunderbird, 302 V8, AOD, 180 hp, 2-bbl (MC-2150) ‘88 Dodge Aries, 153 L4, 3-speed auto, 107 hp, EFI (Bosch TBI)
Response:
Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
Response:
I have a 91 Shadow. I have replaced the exhaust (from behind the cat converter to the muffler pipe) three times. The NAPA exhaust rusted out after 2 years twice. The hardest problem was the pipe off the Cat converter exit pipe. This required hitting, hack sawing, and peeling and little brute force. with pipes so rusty it actually comes off reasonably. I would agree it is a two hour job. My complaint, is on my 85 turbo glh omni, Chrysler put a stainless exhaust. it never failed. (it was totaled out at 100K when I hit the back end of a stopped car). My 89 Gcaravan at 180k still has the original pipes though the mufffler let go this year. Why did Chrysler put a cheap exhaust on this car?!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. >Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. >Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.)
Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email
Response:
> you should replace the whole system > it’s not that hard > you’ll need a 1/2" socket set with a breaker bar, a large hammer, Goggles, > prybar (large screwdriver will do), drop light and 4 jackstands. > should take you half the day to complete or less > just take your time > — > xx
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
Thanks. I’m going for it. I’m told the flange on the cat is bad so I’ll apparently be doing that also. I’ll let you know how it goes. Before you buy.
Response:
<< > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. >>
I replaced the entire exhaust on my Merc. Tracer a few years ago. It really wasn’t that hard. I went to a bone yard and picked up an exhaust system off a junker that was in decent shape for about $40. Here are the problems I ran into: – Bone yard can’t sell you the catalytic converter. You’ll have pull it off the junker and leave it there then use your own. – I had a hard time pulling the old exhaust out and putting the new one in due to the exhaust curving over the rear axle. I just couldn’t get the jackstands high enough to make it easy. I eventually got it after lots of maneuvering. I didn’t need any welding. The cat was bolted on and the system bolts onto the exhaust manifold. The tail pipe and muffler were already in place from the junker. Every other part of the system was hung using the rubber donuts. Good luck.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tons of questions….. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I > took it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole > exhaust system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m > considering doing it myself but I am approaching the job with > caution. Repair work is not new to me, but I’m trying to be > realistic; especially since I’ll be laying on the ground under the > jacked up car and will have to answer my wife’s questions about how > it’s going and how much longer it’s going to take. Here are my > questions, your input is appreciated: > Of course, you will have jack stands correct ? You were not planning > on doing it with just a jack – were you?
Correct. I use jack stands, back-up jack stands and maybe even ramps as backup. I might risk getting into a job I can’t handle, but I DON’T risk my life! > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or > two, so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might > be easier (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old > system and replace the whole thing. How much harder would it be to > pull out just the intermediate and replace that alone? What > implications would this have if something else goes ‘down the road’? > Easier to do from "cat-back" and skip the mid pieces you will never > get them apart anyway.
The first shop I took it to said I’d need everything including the cat. A second shop is looking at it today. I guess I will at least do the "cat-back". How does the intermediate pipe attach to the cat? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. > Does that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Did they put that on the estimate ? A pro-shop shouldn’t take two > hours to do most exhaust systems. They have the right tools – its > maybe a 1 hour or less job for a cat-back. They cut out, grind down, > toss in, tighten up and they are done.
Like I said, they were doing the cat also. > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > From the factory systems may have been welded.
What about the replacement process? Will I need to weld in any of the new pieces? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects > to the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) > so I’d have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. > On my back, under the car?) > If you went from the manifold back then yes – and that is going to be > one of the harder bolts to get off – esp without an impact wrench.
I replaced my steering gear without an impact wrench (it took awhile). I see the effort as a combination of do-it-yourself auto-repair and exercising/working-out. If this is just one bolt, maybe I’ll give it a try? I just wonder how difficult it is to reach and then apply torque to. But then again, if it is that hard to reach how could I get an impact wrench on it? > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The > job might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new > cool tool.) > Yup, a compressor, a cut-off tool for it, an impact wrench for it, > maybe a grinder
If I replace everything including the cat, it sounds like there is one bolt to remove at the manifold/cat (plus clamps). Think I can get away with out the power tools? What if the second shop says I don’t need a cat? (I might just have the shop do it then.) I’m not sure how the intermediate connects to the cat so I’m not sure I could do the "cat-back". Any suggestions? What about a pipe expander? Or do the replacement parts fit right together? > Sounds like you need to collect a few more tools before doing this. > I spend hours and hours doing a cat-back on an old Mustang II (the 4 > cyl Charlies Angles ones – not the real Mustangs!). A few air tools > would have cut that in half easily (now that I have them and I’ve done > cat-back on my Dakota in 30 minutes). > Brian McCarthy
Before you buy.
Response:
their so-called stainless steel exhaust still rusts out completely after a few years. Even less in NJ where the winters not only consist of the cold and the snow, but of the plentiful salt spread out on the roads. However, the cat does indeed last a long time. I still have the original cat and exhaust manifold pipes that connect the cat to the muffler on my 1981 Ford. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would take a look under the car yourself before you commit to any > repair. Chrysler has used stainless steel exhaust on there cars. > Also cats are made to surpass the life of the car. If anything is > rusted it would be the muffler since it rots from inside out. > You only need to replace the whole system is if it is been damaged. > If you are replacing the over axle pipe(intermediate) dynomax makes a > cat back exhaust for around 100 dollars and very easy to install. The > muffler is barely louder then stock and will help increase gas mileage > and performance. > As for getting under the car. I usually drive my car up on ramps to > get to the rear exhaust. I have had two chrysler cars(87shadow es, 92 > daytona iroc) that installed dynomax cat back kits. > — > James Dempsey Jr > http://w3.nai.net/~demps > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I > took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair > work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since > I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to > answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s > going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or > two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be > easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and > replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this > have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. > Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and > clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects > to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so > I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my > back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The > job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool > tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
– Charlie B. Han Visit my page- http://www2.cybernex.net/~eraser ‘81 Ford T-bird, 302 V8, 4-speed AOD, 164 hp, 2bbl carb (MC-2150) ‘88 Dodge Aries, 153 L4, 3-speed auto, 107 hp, EFI (Bosch TBI)
Response:
I would take a look under the car yourself before you commit to any repair. Chrysler has used stainless steel exhaust on there cars. Also cats are made to surpass the life of the car. If anything is rusted it would be the muffler since it rots from inside out. You only need to replace the whole system is if it is been damaged. If you are replacing the over axle pipe(intermediate) dynomax makes a cat back exhaust for around 100 dollars and very easy to install. The muffler is barely louder then stock and will help increase gas mileage and performance. As for getting under the car. I usually drive my car up on ramps to get to the rear exhaust. I have had two chrysler cars(87shadow es, 92 daytona iroc) that installed dynomax cat back kits. — James Dempsey Jr http://w3.nai.net/~demps
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
Response:
The hardest part of the job is answering your wife . . . when will you be finished????
Response:
you should replace the whole system it’s not that hard you’ll need a 1/2" socket set with a breaker bar, a large hammer, Goggles, prybar (large screwdriver will do), drop light and 4 jackstands. should take you half the day to complete or less just take your time — xx – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
Response:
Tons of questions….. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated:
Of course, you will have jack stands correct ? You were not planning on doing it with just a jack – were you? > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’?
Easier to do from "cat-back" and skip the mid pieces you will never get them apart anyway. > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult?
Did they put that on the estimate ? A pro-shop shouldn’t take two hours to do most exhaust systems. They have the right tools – its maybe a 1 hour or less job for a cat-back. They cut out, grind down, toss in, tighten up and they are done. > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)?
From the factory systems may have been welded. > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?)
If you went from the manifold back then yes – and that is going to be one of the harder bolts to get off – esp without an impact wrench. > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.)
Yup, a compressor, a cut-off tool for it, an impact wrench for it, maybe a grinder Sounds like you need to collect a few more tools before doing this. I spend hours and hours doing a cat-back on an old Mustang II (the 4 cyl Charlies Angles ones – not the real Mustangs!). A few air tools would have cut that in half easily (now that I have them and I’ve done cat-back on my Dakota in 30 minutes). Brian McCarthy
Response:
The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have if something else goes ‘down the road’? The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does that indicate that it is rather difficult? Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, under the car?) Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) Thanks for your help! Before you buy.
Response:
The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have if something else goes ‘down the road’? The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does that indicate that it is rather difficult? Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, under the car?) Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) Thanks for your help! Before you buy.
Response:
Tons of questions….. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated:
Of course, you will have jack stands correct ? You were not planning on doing it with just a jack – were you? > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’?
Easier to do from "cat-back" and skip the mid pieces you will never get them apart anyway. > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult?
Did they put that on the estimate ? A pro-shop shouldn’t take two hours to do most exhaust systems. They have the right tools – its maybe a 1 hour or less job for a cat-back. They cut out, grind down, toss in, tighten up and they are done. > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)?
From the factory systems may have been welded. > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?)
If you went from the manifold back then yes – and that is going to be one of the harder bolts to get off – esp without an impact wrench. > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.)
Yup, a compressor, a cut-off tool for it, an impact wrench for it, maybe a grinder Sounds like you need to collect a few more tools before doing this. I spend hours and hours doing a cat-back on an old Mustang II (the 4 cyl Charlies Angles ones – not the real Mustangs!). A few air tools would have cut that in half easily (now that I have them and I’ve done cat-back on my Dakota in 30 minutes). Brian McCarthy
Response:
The hardest part of the job is answering your wife . . . when will you be finished????
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you should replace the whole system it’s not that hard you’ll need a 1/2" socket set with a breaker bar, a large hammer, Goggles, prybar (large screwdriver will do), drop light and 4 jackstands. should take you half the day to complete or less just take your time — xx – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
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I would take a look under the car yourself before you commit to any repair. Chrysler has used stainless steel exhaust on there cars. Also cats are made to surpass the life of the car. If anything is rusted it would be the muffler since it rots from inside out. You only need to replace the whole system is if it is been damaged. If you are replacing the over axle pipe(intermediate) dynomax makes a cat back exhaust for around 100 dollars and very easy to install. The muffler is barely louder then stock and will help increase gas mileage and performance. As for getting under the car. I usually drive my car up on ramps to get to the rear exhaust. I have had two chrysler cars(87shadow es, 92 daytona iroc) that installed dynomax cat back kits. — James Dempsey Jr http://w3.nai.net/~demps
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
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their so-called stainless steel exhaust still rusts out completely after a few years. Even less in NJ where the winters not only consist of the cold and the snow, but of the plentiful salt spread out on the roads. However, the cat does indeed last a long time. I still have the original cat and exhaust manifold pipes that connect the cat to the muffler on my 1981 Ford. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would take a look under the car yourself before you commit to any > repair. Chrysler has used stainless steel exhaust on there cars. > Also cats are made to surpass the life of the car. If anything is > rusted it would be the muffler since it rots from inside out. > You only need to replace the whole system is if it is been damaged. > If you are replacing the over axle pipe(intermediate) dynomax makes a > cat back exhaust for around 100 dollars and very easy to install. The > muffler is barely louder then stock and will help increase gas mileage > and performance. > As for getting under the car. I usually drive my car up on ramps to > get to the rear exhaust. I have had two chrysler cars(87shadow es, 92 > daytona iroc) that installed dynomax cat back kits. > — > James Dempsey Jr > http://w3.nai.net/~demps > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I > took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair > work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since > I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to > answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s > going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or > two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be > easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and > replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this > have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. > Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and > clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects > to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so > I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my > back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The > job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool > tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
– Charlie B. Han Visit my page- http://www2.cybernex.net/~eraser ‘81 Ford T-bird, 302 V8, 4-speed AOD, 164 hp, 2bbl carb (MC-2150) ‘88 Dodge Aries, 153 L4, 3-speed auto, 107 hp, EFI (Bosch TBI)
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<< > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. >>
I replaced the entire exhaust on my Merc. Tracer a few years ago. It really wasn’t that hard. I went to a bone yard and picked up an exhaust system off a junker that was in decent shape for about $40. Here are the problems I ran into: – Bone yard can’t sell you the catalytic converter. You’ll have pull it off the junker and leave it there then use your own. – I had a hard time pulling the old exhaust out and putting the new one in due to the exhaust curving over the rear axle. I just couldn’t get the jackstands high enough to make it easy. I eventually got it after lots of maneuvering. I didn’t need any welding. The cat was bolted on and the system bolts onto the exhaust manifold. The tail pipe and muffler were already in place from the junker. Every other part of the system was hung using the rubber donuts. Good luck.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tons of questions….. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I > took it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole > exhaust system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m > considering doing it myself but I am approaching the job with > caution. Repair work is not new to me, but I’m trying to be > realistic; especially since I’ll be laying on the ground under the > jacked up car and will have to answer my wife’s questions about how > it’s going and how much longer it’s going to take. Here are my > questions, your input is appreciated: > Of course, you will have jack stands correct ? You were not planning > on doing it with just a jack – were you?
Correct. I use jack stands, back-up jack stands and maybe even ramps as backup. I might risk getting into a job I can’t handle, but I DON’T risk my life! > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or > two, so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might > be easier (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old > system and replace the whole thing. How much harder would it be to > pull out just the intermediate and replace that alone? What > implications would this have if something else goes ‘down the road’? > Easier to do from "cat-back" and skip the mid pieces you will never > get them apart anyway.
The first shop I took it to said I’d need everything including the cat. A second shop is looking at it today. I guess I will at least do the "cat-back". How does the intermediate pipe attach to the cat? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. > Does that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Did they put that on the estimate ? A pro-shop shouldn’t take two > hours to do most exhaust systems. They have the right tools – its > maybe a 1 hour or less job for a cat-back. They cut out, grind down, > toss in, tighten up and they are done.
Like I said, they were doing the cat also. > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > From the factory systems may have been welded.
What about the replacement process? Will I need to weld in any of the new pieces? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects > to the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) > so I’d have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. > On my back, under the car?) > If you went from the manifold back then yes – and that is going to be > one of the harder bolts to get off – esp without an impact wrench.
I replaced my steering gear without an impact wrench (it took awhile). I see the effort as a combination of do-it-yourself auto-repair and exercising/working-out. If this is just one bolt, maybe I’ll give it a try? I just wonder how difficult it is to reach and then apply torque to. But then again, if it is that hard to reach how could I get an impact wrench on it? > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The > job might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new > cool tool.) > Yup, a compressor, a cut-off tool for it, an impact wrench for it, > maybe a grinder
If I replace everything including the cat, it sounds like there is one bolt to remove at the manifold/cat (plus clamps). Think I can get away with out the power tools? What if the second shop says I don’t need a cat? (I might just have the shop do it then.) I’m not sure how the intermediate connects to the cat so I’m not sure I could do the "cat-back". Any suggestions? What about a pipe expander? Or do the replacement parts fit right together? > Sounds like you need to collect a few more tools before doing this. > I spend hours and hours doing a cat-back on an old Mustang II (the 4 > cyl Charlies Angles ones – not the real Mustangs!). A few air tools > would have cut that in half easily (now that I have them and I’ve done > cat-back on my Dakota in 30 minutes). > Brian McCarthy
Before you buy.
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> you should replace the whole system > it’s not that hard > you’ll need a 1/2" socket set with a breaker bar, a large hammer, Goggles, > prybar (large screwdriver will do), drop light and 4 jackstands. > should take you half the day to complete or less > just take your time > — > xx
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
Thanks. I’m going for it. I’m told the flange on the cat is bad so I’ll apparently be doing that also. I’ll let you know how it goes. Before you buy.
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Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Thanks for your help! > Before you buy.
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I have a 91 Shadow. I have replaced the exhaust (from behind the cat converter to the muffler pipe) three times. The NAPA exhaust rusted out after 2 years twice. The hardest problem was the pipe off the Cat converter exit pipe. This required hitting, hack sawing, and peeling and little brute force. with pipes so rusty it actually comes off reasonably. I would agree it is a two hour job. My complaint, is on my 85 turbo glh omni, Chrysler put a stainless exhaust. it never failed. (it was totaled out at 100K when I hit the back end of a stopped car). My 89 Gcaravan at 180k still has the original pipes though the mufffler let go this year. Why did Chrysler put a cheap exhaust on this car?!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. >Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. >Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. > The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took > it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust > system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering > doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work > is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll > be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer > my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going > to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: > If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the > intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, > so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier > (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace > the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the > intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have > if something else goes ‘down the road’? > The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does > that indicate that it is rather difficult? > Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? > What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it > difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to > the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d > have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, > under the car?) > Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job > might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.)
Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email
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the original stainless on my 88 Aries rusted out 3 years ago and I found out only after my resonator was "missing". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 91 Shadow. I have replaced the exhaust (from behind the cat converter > to the muffler pipe) three times. The NAPA exhaust rusted out after 2 years > twice. The hardest problem was the pipe off the Cat converter exit pipe. This > required hitting, hack sawing, and peeling and little brute force. with > pipes so rusty it actually comes off reasonably. I would agree it is a two > hour job. > My complaint, is on my 85 turbo glh omni, Chrysler put a stainless exhaust. > it never failed. (it was totaled out at 100K when I hit the back end of a > stopped car). My 89 Gcaravan at 180k still has the original pipes though the > mufffler let go this year. Why did Chrysler put a cheap exhaust on this car?!! >Getting the old stuff of is the hardest. Especially if it’s rusted. >Crawl under and give it a try first before deciding if it’s too hard. >Read all the good safety advice on the other posts. >> The intermediate exhaust pipe of my ‘89 Dodge Shadow rusted-out. I took >> it to a repair shop and they said I need to have the whole exhaust >> system replaced (I think it is the original system). I’m considering >> doing it myself but I am approaching the job with caution. Repair work >> is not new to me, but I’m trying to be realistic; especially since I’ll >> be laying on the ground under the jacked up car and will have to answer >> my wife’s questions about how it’s going and how much longer it’s going >> to take. Here are my questions, your input is appreciated: >> If I do it myself, should I replace the whole system or just the >> intermediate pipe? I’m only looking to keep the car another year or two, >> so the job doesn’t have to be thorough. It seems like it might be easier >> (though more expensive) to pull out the complete old system and replace >> the whole thing. How much harder would it be to pull out just the >> intermediate and replace that alone? What implications would this have >> if something else goes ‘down the road’? >> The repair estimate seemed to indicate it was about a 2 hour job. Does >> that indicate that it is rather difficult? >> Is there any welding involved (I believe it is all flanges and clamps.)? >> What difficulties should I anticipate removing the old parts? Is it >> difficult to access the point where the catalytic converter connects to >> the manifold? (I believe it is a flange connection with a bolt(?) so I’d >> have to be able to get to and apply torque to the old bolt. On my back, >> under the car?) >> Any special tools needed? (I have the basics (but no air tools). The job >> might be more attractive to do myself if I have to buy a new cool tool.) > Bryan Cope > remove *nojunk* to email
– Charlie B. Han ‘81 Ford Thunderbird, 302 V8, AOD, 180 hp, 2-bbl (MC-2150) ‘88 Dodge Aries, 153 L4, 3-speed auto, 107 hp, EFI (Bosch TBI)
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