Exercise R Us

Question:

> Hello People, >> "If the dog is trained properly, he does not think of his >> protection >> training as fun and games at the big dog park. During a protection >> class, the dogs temperature should go up to 106 and he should have >> loose stools within two or three minutes of beginning the lesson."

Cindy: > Working a dog to that point deliberately would be absolutely >> abusive. jerry: >RIGHT. IT TAKES >>>>>>>>TWO MINUTES<<<<<<< TO DO THAT…

Cindy: >> Words fail me at the concept.  The dog can *die* rather horribly >> this way. jerry: >That’s Howe much YOU know. We’re talking >>>>>>two minutes of

"abuse."<<<<<<<<<< Jerry Howe 2-9-2000 > Actually, they are accustomed to expect the unexpected from me… Did > you FORGET the rest of the instructions? Here, let me help…Check > the chamber, unlock the safety, put the muzzle of the shotgun in your > mouth and suck hard, grasping the barrel firmly with both hands, and > place your big toe into the trigger guard, and GENTLY push… Don’t > worry about the noise, do your arithmatic, physics will protect you > from hearing the sound. That’s the best part, go ahead, you won’t > hear a thing at all…

> "No, I don’t like dogs. I don’t like people, either. Dogs are only > animals, put there for us to use in any fashion we see fit." J. Howe > May 22, 1999

10/24/1999 "Before you get me wrong, I’ve got to tell you, I’ve used them myself. Owned several different brands, too. If I ever need one, I’ll let you know. They can be useful when all else fails, for poison proofing, and snake proofing, where the disease is worse than the cure. I like that. But not too much. Not till I’ve worked on training the problem….That I like. You know how popular I am. I need my dogs poison proofed. So do my students. It’s not that hard, and it doesn’t usually take long. But, some dogs can be harder than others to train, especially if they’ve been trained with food bribes. If there’s a risk of poisoning, it might help to use the collar to poison proof them." Jerry Howe

Response:

Hello People, We often hear trainers talk about the need for consistency in training. Some say never allow behaviors that you do not want. Consistency means you must address behaviors even when it is not convenient for you to address the issue. Otherwise,you will have those behaviors offered to you when you don’t want them. Others disagree and say that you may do both, but ONLY if you put the behavior on a cue, such as teaching the dog to jump up on you or telling him it is O.K. to get up on the couch but ONLY if you invite him… The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual says that when you ask for something, follow through with that request, we always follow the last command first, until it culminates in either being accomplished, or ends in the appropriate default (usually the come command, because we know he will do that), used to recover and again reissue the request… The reasoning is simple… Lack of consistency confuses the dog, and makes a mockery out of your decision making ability.  Lacking consistency creates doubts and suspicion of your ability and reasoning as the leader, and throws his whole perception of your leadership ability into chaos…, and causes him to feel the need to take control and enforce discipline in the household… Following is an example of Howe consistency is used by professional dog trainers to get their message across clearly to the dog and to the people we are teaching… The following is a response from Amy Dahl, one of our professional field dog trainers and published author, clarifying some alleged discrepancies and inconsistencies in HER published training methods.

>> I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html??? > Isn’t that YOUR OWN WORDS??? But YOU don’t DO > THAT???

People, this is HOWE consistency works, and most particularly well with dogs, because here, the same methods are being used to INFLUENCE YOU, and YOU certainly are more intellectually capable of solving problems and have greater critical thinking skills than your dogs…, and these methods work on YOU> > That article, reprinted from The Retriever Journal, is > the words of my husband John and myself.

Meaning "We’ll share the credit, making it more credible??? Or we’ll share the blame, to mitigate our own individual responsibility and guilt…" YOU decide, it’s not my business where the blame falls. > For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses > not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting > ears,"

From the text">>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> "but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch>>> You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb;>>> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that>>> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance.>>> Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.>>> the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" Right… Didn’t lyingfrostydahly just deny all of that? There’s more… That was just a little about ear pinching, and no there was NO MENTION of twisting ears… cindy moore has all that information for you… But does it really matter, the semantics of whether we’re twisting or pinching or slapping or hitting??? These are the subtle differences between being an expert dog trainer and some morally bankrupt vicious rotten abusive cretin that goes to jail for abusing dogs…  But don’t lose interest now, there’s more… > NO mention whatsoever of dogs’ toes in any context, > and NO mention of "beating" dogs.

Right, lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>" Wouldn’t you think that was despicable enough even just writing that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSER??? But it goes on…  >>> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying  "No!">>> If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!">>>  use a chuck under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth. If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> (perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer…  Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT, so long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.

"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it. This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates… > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.

Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… "Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips. Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several minutes pass and>>> You want the dog to think that it is "beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog, increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the command," Here’s a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our own respected Amy Dahl’s published text: "it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back. you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid the stick. >>>  As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome.we do not recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed approach. > — > Amy Frost Dahl   Retriever Training phone: (910) 295-6710 > Pinehurst, NC 28370

Lets move on, and get this past us. This should be totally ignored, and everyone can forget all about it, like it doesn’t happen… That’s what these people are trying to get you to believe, and that’s what all the commotion is about… Please do not quote my messages in their entirety, because it may be upsetting to others with weak stomachs and human conscience… ">>>and pinch its ear if a dummy or bird is ever dropped. While force-fetching is now complete, training has become more varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to continue.>>>" I don’t think so… Bye, bye, lyingfrostydahly!!!

Response:

> Hello Jimmymoose,

Please be aware that while Jerry Howe professes to be a great dog trainer, he has never provided any proof, references, or anything that would lead a sensible person to think that he owns a dog, much less trains any. When questioned about his methods, he becomes extremely abusive, and has even gone so far as to urge his detractors to commit suicide….even to the point of giving detailed instructions in how to do so. It is the opinion of many here, that Jerry has severe mental problems…..so please keep that in mind while pondering his advice. Lois E.

Response:

Hello Jimmymoose, The information in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual will set her straight in just a couple of hours work… The Family Leadership Exercise will teach her to follow and respect your wishes, teaching her to come the first time through installing a conditioned reflex will keep her responsive and in control, and learning to use sound distractions and praise will address her behaviors without making an issue out of them and causing more stress and anxiety… The WEDTM manual is available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com. "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent. Salvor Hardin If you cannot convince them, confuse them. H.S. Truman. ;~) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… J>>> "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

>Hiya, my name’s jim

 Howdy jim >Our family has had a dog for 5 years. >She was from a protection of animals center >her history is unknown >I believe she one when we got her. >Originally she was very hyperactive, she ripped up carpet, pooed in the >house,did not come back, jumped, aggressive etc; >I’m sure you get the picture.

Sounds like one dog to me.  It’s a good thing she didn’t have a split personality, then she would have been two and two dogs would have done twice as much. >Over a number of years she improved with no housing wreaking, relative good >behavior off the lead.

<Snipped story of untrained dog> >Wag has growled at our son a number of times. >anyhow the two main things >are the growling at my son, and the whimpering and whining(can be very loud, >and seems to touch a raw nerve within us both) >Any suggestions at all of how to deal with this will be much appreciated.

Ok, you’ve got some potentially serious problems here.  How serious they may be is impossible to tell without actually seeing the dog and the situation.  Odds are that your dog just needs some training, exercise, and structure within her life.  Things that are relatively easily done.   However, because of the growling at your son, you really need to get some in-person help.  This is potentially very serious, both for your son and ultimately for the dog.  Find a trainer that has experience with working on behavior problems and follow their advice.  Check with the vet and the shelter for some recommendations. I cannot stress enough that because of the growling at your son, this has gone beyond a simple training issue.  You need to establish a proper relationship with your dog and we can’t tell you how to do that over the computer.  You need someone to come in, assess the situation and the parties involved and give you advice accordingly. Good luck. Ludwig Smith Dog FAQS http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/ rec.pets.dogs.info

Response:

Hi Jim, Actually, you’ve hit upon the problem: the dog isn’t getting the attention she needs. People often see *exactly* the same problems with the first child when they have a second. The first child was used to getting all the attention and love, and now suddenly he is put on the back burner somewhat. Lots of jealous behaviors are displayed, including behaviors inappropriately aimed toward the baby. First, you need to set aside time for the dog — real time, not just "in between other things" time. If you can’t, consider rehoming the dog. Second, evaluate the dog’s exercise needs. What may help for both the attention and exercise needs is to hire a pet walker to spend an hour a day with the dog. Maybe a neighborhood teenager would like the job. Or a retired neighbor. I’ve found that not getting enough exercise is the root of the majority of destructive behavior problems. Third, keep the dog and the baby separate unless you’re on the floor supervising the interaction. I won’t allow any unsupervised (on the floor, not just in the room) interaction between my dog and young children. Children can do some incredibly inappropriate things, and the dog only has one way to defend himself. Teach the dog that good things happen in the presence of the child. Start with the dog across the room from the baby — and I’d pick a time when the baby is playing by himself. Simply feed treats and give loving pats to the dog until he can relax in the presence of the child. *Don’t* let the child toddle up and get in the way while you’re feeding the treats — that’s just asking for the dog to protect his food and bite the baby. Not acceptable but predictable — and completely avoidable. Is the dog trained? Why don’t you put him through an obedience course? Notonly will it refresh his memory of common commands, but it will be quality time together, both in class and during your training sessions. Finally, just watch your family’s behavior. If the dog is being perfect, does it get ignored? Is it getting attention only when it acts out? That’s a *learned* behavior to get attention. Reinforce the calm behaviors; reinforce the behaviors you like; ignore the problem behaviors — or better yet, manage them so the dog can’t do them. Melissa Alexander www.clickersolutions.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hiya, my name’s jim > Our family has had a dog for 5 years. > She was from a protection of animals center > her history is unknown > I believe she one when we got her. > Originally she was very hyperactive, she ripped up carpet, pooed in the > house,did not come back, jumped, aggressive etc; > I’m sure you get the picture. > Over a number of years she improved with no housing wreaking, relative good > behavior off the lead. > However she began to whimper when she didn’t get her walk at AM in the > morning. > This behavior then traveled to if she wasn’t allowed in a room if we had > guests and then to any situation were she did not get what she appeared to > want. > Two years ago we had a son and since then the behavior has become more un > manageable > Other behavior’s have returned. > My partner has great difficulty controlling her whilst out, with my dog > often not responding to commands anymore. > It would not be as difficult if we did not have a son but we do, and > therefore wag the dog gets less attention. Our son is also interested in > wag, and will want to play. > Wag has growled at our son a number of times. > anyhow the two main things > are the growling at my son, and the whimpering and whining(can be very loud, > and seems to touch a raw nerve within us both) > Any suggestions at all of how to deal with this will be much appreciated.

Before you buy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hiya, my name’s jim > Our family has had a dog for 5 years. > She was from a protection of animals center > her history is unknown > I believe she one when we got her. > Originally she was very hyperactive, she ripped up carpet, pooed in the > house,did not come back, jumped, aggressive etc; > I’m sure you get the picture. > Over a number of years she improved with no housing wreaking, relative good > behavior off the lead. > However she began to whimper when she didn’t get her walk at AM in the > morning. > This behavior then traveled to if she wasn’t allowed in a room if we had > guests and then to any situation were she did not get what she appeared to > want. > Two years ago we had a son and since then the behavior has become more un > manageable > Other behavior’s have returned. > My partner has great difficulty controlling her whilst out, with my dog > often not responding to commands anymore. > It would not be as difficult if we did not have a son but we do, and > therefore wag the dog gets less attention. Our son is also interested in > wag, and will want to play. > Wag has growled at our son a number of times. > anyhow the two main things > are the growling at my son, and the whimpering and whining(can be very loud, > and seems to touch a raw nerve within us both) > Any suggestions at all of how to deal with this will be much appreciated.

Have you had any formal training classes? If not, sign up for one. You would be amased at how much you would both gain from that. The bond gets stronger and you learn to teach your dog all the things you want him/her to know. If your dog is growling, you need to seriously consider getting outside help. I’ve been there and it isn’t fun to have a dog who growlsat you or anyone in your house but it is fixable.

Response:

Hiya, my name’s jim Our family has had a dog for 5 years. She was from a protection of animals center her history is unknown I believe she one when we got her. Originally she was very hyperactive, she ripped up carpet, pooed in the house,did not come back, jumped, aggressive etc; I’m sure you get the picture. Over a number of years she improved with no housing wreaking, relative good behavior off the lead. However she began to whimper when she didn’t get her walk at AM in the morning. This behavior then traveled to if she wasn’t allowed in a room if we had guests and then to any situation were she did not get what she appeared to want. Two years ago we had a son and since then the behavior has become more un manageable Other behavior’s have returned. My partner has great difficulty controlling her whilst out, with my dog often not responding to commands anymore. It would not be as difficult if we did not have a son but we do, and therefore wag the dog gets less attention. Our son is also interested in wag, and will want to play. Wag has growled at our son a number of times. anyhow the two main things are the growling at my son, and the whimpering and whining(can be very loud, and seems to touch a raw nerve within us both) Any suggestions at all of how to deal with this will be much appreciated.

Response: