Exercise R Us » Exercise Training » Help, my dog has a mean streak
Question:
Jerry Howe writes: >You are insane. Got my eight cents? It’s getting >late. Four days left, and you start accruing late >charges, accounting and service charges, and >collection costs. I will pursue it, so ante up
Jer, whatever you do——PLEASE don’t send those florida police dogs that the handlers ask you for advice after me. Please Jer, have mercy. FRED HASSEN "SIT MEANS SIT" Internet talkshow host http://www.lovemypets.com/sitmeanssit Dog Training for the Real World Sit Means Sit Dog Training (702-877-4581) When your dog doesn’t know: "Sit from Shinola"
Response:
>This is a common trait for females when warning a pup that it should cease >and desist it’s bothering behaviour, the female usually growls and snaps >without making contact. Your dog has to learn that such behaviour is >absolutely unacceptable. By the ways, Chows are noted "face biters’ and >their owners should always be aware of the dog’s propensity to "snap" at >people who place their faces too close to the dog.
Wow, I guess that means over 1/2 of the male dogs I know are gender-challenged: teeth are a warning in over 90% of all mamals. So is snapping. >Start by only taking the food away when you have something more attractive >to offer, i.e. something that tastes and smells better than the dog is >presently eating. The dog should learn that "all good things come from >people". >Now, if after 4 or 5 days of this the dog persists in reacting to you or >anyone else with the warning body language and growl you are going to have >to get physical. As soon as the dog shows the adverse behaviour sieze it by >the cheeks, firmly, and count to ten by twos (2!, 4! ….) in a very low and >angry voice, shaking mildly.
Please don’t tel people to do this, it’s gets them hurt, and makes us look bad. >Push the dog away, take the food away and don’t >have anything to do with the dog for at least 15 minutes. Replace the food >and repeat the exercise. If the dog still reacts warningly escalate with >louder "growls" and sharper shaking.
Why do you even need to touch the dog… isn’t that a case of escalating behavior that requires professional help? >My experience is that this procedure has stopped almost all cases of food >aggression, but in extreme cases I’ve had to recommend that the child must >come first and if the dog doesn’t learn the lesson, get rid of the dog. >Good luck Randy. >- Bob
Classic case of bad trainer advice. "If I can’t teach it, the dog needs to be put down." Did you know that your method causes over 25% of the dogs that need to be euthanized in the US? You are taking an animal that already has a socialization problem and alienating it from it’s own family. Did you know there are other methods? Including the clicker/reward methods , there are shock collars, choke collars, a behaviorist,…. don’t kill the dog because you don’t know what to do but one thing. I don’t hate you, or even dislike oyu, but your method is dangerous and will get either you or someone else hurt.. please look at some other method to train: you’ll feel better for it. remove the spam from my email box to speak with me Web address http://www.potomacvmi.net
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Jerry writes: >If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk >your dog around, shock, or punish him in any >manner, that corrections are appropriate, that >the dog won’t >think of you as the punisher, or that corrections >are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do >what you want, look for a trainer that knows >Howe. > Yep, let ol Jer shake cans and other annoying sounds at him. The dog > will never figure out Howe it happened. > Got Milk? > Your Friend > F. > FRED HASSEN > "SIT MEANS SIT" Internet talkshow host > http://www.lovemypets.com/sitmeanssit > Dog Training for the Real World > Sit Means Sit Dog Training (702-877-4581) > When your dog doesn’t know: > "Sit from Shinola"
Hello Fraud Die, You shock dogs continuously, until they break their behavior, and you got the balls to criticize me for interrupting a behavior with any brief sound and prolonged non physical praise? You are insane. Got my eight cents? It’s getting late. Four days left, and you start accruing late charges, accounting and service charges, and collection costs. I will pursue it, so ante up. Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?: If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, shock, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
> I was well taken care of, educated, all the usual good stuff that > comes in a comfortable family in a nice location.
Whoa! Hold the phone! You were just bragging about how you were a simple UNeducated dog trainer. Get your stories straight, fella. –Terri & Harlan — Also, just when you think you have them all down——Llama spit comes around in one form or another. — Frederick Hassen 5/23/99 Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
Response:
Jerry writes: >If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk >your dog around, shock, or punish him in any >manner, that corrections are appropriate, that >the dog won’t >think of you as the punisher, or that corrections >are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do >what you want, look for a trainer that knows >Howe.
Yep, let ol Jer shake cans and other annoying sounds at him. The dog will never figure out Howe it happened. Got Milk? Your Friend F. FRED HASSEN "SIT MEANS SIT" Internet talkshow host http://www.lovemypets.com/sitmeanssit Dog Training for the Real World Sit Means Sit Dog Training (702-877-4581) When your dog doesn’t know: "Sit from Shinola"
Response:
Hello Donna, I didn’t say it didn’t work. I said it was dangerous, and not something I would do, nor recommend any one else do either. Shooting the dog will work too. It’s dangerous, so is giving him food like that. That’s not a good way to start. To get the dog to allow you to take from him, there needs to be more to the relationship than the food issue. You look at the micro, and miss the more important issues of the macro. Jerry.
Response:
> > When working directly with food or object aggression, ADDING TO the food while > the dog is eating is a much better approach than taking the food away. > What the hell makes you think the dog knows your giving rather than taking? The dog > don’t kare. He’s a dog. You go to touch his food, he’s going to react.
It works Jerry. We had this problem with Luke when he was a bit younger. He would do the "nasty dog dance" whenever I tried to take something away from him. I fixed this by adding something to his food bowl, while he ate every meal. I showed him the first couple of times that I had something yummy in my hand and then stuck it in the bowl. Then we graduated to just sticking my hands in his bowl and stirring it all around and leaving behind a tasty tidbit. He knew after the first time that my hand in his face while eating anything, meant that I had something better to offer. He got lots of praise during all his teaching and now I can take anything from him with only one word. > The dog > learns that the hand provides, not threatens. Of course, the dog doesn’t get > to eat without permission to begin with. > That sounds good. It almost makes sense. It’s bunk. Teaching the dog to come is > more important than any of that.
Why is that bunk? "Come" is also very important, probably the most important command there is for a dog to know for many reasons but the dog learning that all good things come from the human is a good thing too. Donna
Response:
: But one problem we still have with her is that when she gets : a real good bone or toy in her mouth, she’ll growl when we try : to take it from her. This is usually preceeded by what we call : her “vampire face.” So we practice giving her bones and then : taking them away. : On Saturday, we were at our favorite lunch place with outdoor : seating and took Xena along. She’s been there many times before : and is always very well behaved. A little boy (about 3) came : up and asked us if our dog liked to be petted and where. My : wife told him, on the sides and on the nose and on the head. : The little boy hardly touched her when Xena suddenly without : warning bit the air in front of the boy (not making any contact : with the boy) and made her vampire face. The little boy was : hardly aware that this had happened, but we quickly sent him : away and disciplined the dog, putting her in a down-stay. : This behavior is very frightening to us, as we are having : a child in the fall (our first). What can we do to prevent : this from happening or to train the dog that this is : unacceptable behavior? I work with the dog every day : and will do whatever I can. First, if you want a good description of teaching the dog to be less sensitive to resource guarding look up some older posts in the method but the basic idea is to teach the dog that good things happen when she has something and someone approaches. Here is how to search First select power search For the "forum" but rec.pets.dogs.behavior If you want just a few posts then search the "Subject" line for "food aggression problem" If you want more leave the subject line blank and just search for the keywords three bowl Second, be careful about how often you "test" the dog. Some people do it so often that it becomes harrassment. Taking anything from a dog is something you should be able to do, but the more often you do it simply to demonstrate your power over the dog the more likely you are to increase rather than reduce the problem. I have a number of resources for parents and parents to be when there is already a dog in the household. See http://www.dog-play.com/youth.html#safety I highly recommend you start working with a trainer or behaviorist now. You want to feel comfortable with the situation long before the child arrives. Talk to your veterinarian, local humane society or spca, dog training clubs etc. Also check the links I provide on my behavior page for resources: http://www.dog-play.com/behavior.html Diane Blackman – – - - - - - - – "[The] ideal owner/dog propblem-solving orientation, . . . takes into account the fact that dogs and people have their own special needs and body langauge. "The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs" by Myrna M. Milani, DVM.
Response:
Hello Lori, > If I have to hear this crap any more I think I might just PUKE.
Serviette, M’dam? Perhaps you can suffer a little longer, till my advice and admonishment is no longer necessary, for the greater benefit of all? > I do not understand why you just don’t get it….I have been sitting here > with no keyboard for a week, able to read, but not respond. A "watcher", so > to speak.
Too bad you broke a good trend. Try again. > It seems you talk, no one listens, so you talk more.
People are listening, even right now… > The more > you talk the more you look like a desperate child screaming for attention.
You are damn tootin! I’m going to get some attention to the things that are screaming for attention, the important things that I am trying to teach here. > NOBODY cares.
You don’t care. That’s your problem. Not anyone else’s. I care. That’s enough to cast my vote for further effort. > I’m not trying to be mean, but you are not the ONLY dog trainer in the > world….and the people who INSIST that they are right are usually the ones > who are in need of some kind of ego boost, to prove themselves in some way.
Listen up, little girl, I need to prove that there is rotten advice being given here, that creates, rather than solves, behavior problems in dogs. That is not what I am trying to prove. That is exactly what I am indeed, PROVING> > Not that you ARE right, but because you are lacking in some kind of esteem.
I want for little. I live predominately on Pranah. > Did you have a hard childhood?? Poor baby.
I was well taken care of, educated, all the usual good stuff that comes in a comfortable family in a nice location. You could say that I had the best of everything, by upper middle class standards. > You are not the god of dog trainers Jerry.
I didn’t say that, perhaps it was some of my students, they have been known to exaggerate the legend, in my opinion, or perhaps it was some critic of mine being facetious and snide. At any rate, I’m human, and divine, and humble. > Just because you have this > little box does not mean that it’s the only way.
I am not here talking about Doggy Do Right, I’m here talking about dog training. > I would like to see the > trainers work together and support each other, and most here do, except for > Jerry.
Yes, you got a safe bet on that! Well, only until recently, when several other pretty decent trainers came along. But until then, I was all alone shoveling the shit out of the way, trying to bring some reason and decency to dog training here. That’s why I came aboard. They didn’t have much going for them. They were doing most everything bassackwards, still are, and the stupid bastards are still wondering why they have problem dogs. But what really fries my butt is, they tell other people their erroneous trash, and dogs get in trouble over it. That’s my job, so, I figured I could maybe help them over the humps a little bit. Just trying to be helpful, you know. (Kind of like my version of Fredie and Maddy picking up the trash) > You’re in it for the money, and that’s it….except for the not > quite so occasional spurts of childish crap that you get into with some > others here.
You can’t say that about me. I’m not quite ordinary. I’m not interested much in money. I’m set for life. I don’t have to worry or struggle or be concerned with many of the ordinary things that people are motivated by. And, I’m generous to a fault. > That is amusing, at best.
You don’t see me smiling, do you? I’m not. I take these matters very seriously. I’ve had to put up with watching too much shit going down, to take it easy, and let things continue as they had for so long. > Alot of testosterone flying, silly > swearing and name calling, but no real intelligent outcome.
No? No intelligent outcome? Why? I disagree. I think the outcome thus far has been quite good, considering what I started with. I’m satisfied… I knew what I would be up against way before I started here. I’ve been around, it’s been my life’s work. I’m used to a little objection and a wee tad of adversity from the usual dog training aficionado’s. You might say I’ve been fighting these bastards all of my life. > What is the > purpose??
You gotta ask me the purpose? You said you’d been following the posts. What the hell do YOU think is the purpose? And if you come back with the black box, I’m taking away the serviette I offered earlier. The purpose is to educate and enlighten the dog training community, and make life easier for dogs and their families. That’s the purpose, my dear. Do you have a purpose? What is your purpose, may I ask? > No one will win!
Wanna bet? I will win. Know why? Because I know Howe. > I feel like putting you over my knee and giving > you a good spanking, and I don’t even spank my own kids!!
Listen, I’m married, and very faithful. But thanks for the intriguing offer! > Or maybe you > could sell me a black box to calm me down everytime I see one of your > SCREAMING POST TITLES!!!! JUST SHUT UP!!!!! ARRRRRRRRRRGH! > Lori Peters
Let me take that request into consideration for a moment… I’ll tell you the truth, Lori, I could have my engineer whip one up for you in two days, but I won’t. Know why? Because sometimes, in order to heal, it has to hurt. That is a fact of life. In my vested opinion, I am afraid, you are destined to suffer just a little while longer, in the best interest of the greater benefit of all. Request denied. NEXT! If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, shock, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
Hello boss, >Jerry writes >I don’t do that, but I won’t condemn the method, except to say that I don’t >think the dog is going to care what you’re offering him. I wouldn’t recommend >that for someone who doesn’t have all the tools they need to be able to pull >that off. > get you bitten. First and foremost, the dog needs leadership. That means a > relationship with the owner which helps the dog understand that the human makes > the rules, not vice versa.
Sort of, you don’t want to intimidate him. You don’t want to correct him, because he’ll bite. > When working directly with food or object aggression, ADDING TO the food while > the dog is eating is a much better approach than taking the food away.
What the hell makes you think the dog knows your giving rather than taking? The dog don’t kare. He’s a dog. You go to touch his food, he’s going to react. > The dog > learns that the hand provides, not threatens. Of course, the dog doesn’t get > to eat without permission to begin with.
That sounds good. It almost makes sense. It’s bunk. Teaching the dog to come is more important than any of that. > someone is with no basis. This is never something I would ever do nor > recommend. This kind of "correction" will get someone bitten, and probably > rather badly. The goal is for the dog to not find the owner (or any other > human for that metter) to be a threat to their ability to eat their meal. > Nothing is gained by this heavy handedness. If more people started off on the > right paw way before this pup reached this stage, this could be avoided. In > the case of a dog acquired at this age, the first day home should have been > more structured.
That sounds good. What do you suggest to fix the problem, instead of just sounding good? I just had the exact same request, that the lady wrote me her progress this evening. She read the manual Sunday from two till five a.m. She wrote me at five a.m. and asked a couple of questions. Here’s her post at seven p.m. this evening: "I am so glad that you figured out this dog language. I have been working with my dog on the COME command, and with not growling when my daughter gets close to the dog food. Here are the results so far: S_____has now let my daughter play with the dog food without looking distraught, and without growling. She also let the neighbor dog sit by her food bowl without complaint. Also, she seems to be coming to the word come. She comes great when there are no distractions, but she still needs work when she thinks her attention needs to be elsewhere. I wonder if that is a result of my own mistakes with the training. Or, perhaps because we haven’t done the family pack part. We will do that this evening with my husband. She did, however, walk with me down the alley without trying to attack all of the dogs who were barking at her. That was amazing. I don’t think I am supposed to have to train Shadow to come for every different situation that we happen upon, so I wonder if I need to work on my technique. If she comes at the 3rd repetition of "S___comegoodgirl", does that stop the sequence so that the next time I tell her to come we start over with come#1, or do we start with a COME#4 because we never finished the sequence? > Janet Boss<BR> > Best Friends Dog Obedience<BR> > "Nice Manners for the Family Pet"<BR> > <BR> > "Second-hand dogs AREN’T second-rate"
If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, shock, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, shock, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training If I have to hear this crap any more I think I might just PUKE. I do not understand why you just don’t get it….I have been sitting here with no keyboard for a week, able to read, but not respond. A "watcher", so to speak. It seems you talk, no one listens, so you talk more. The more you talk the more you look like a desperate child screaming for attention. NOBODY cares. I’m not trying to be mean, but you are not the ONLY dog trainer in the world….and the people who INSIST that they are right are usually the ones who are in need of some kind of ego boost, to prove themselves in some way. Not that you ARE right, but because you are lacking in some kind of esteem. Did you have a hard childhood?? Poor baby. You are not the god of dog trainers Jerry. Just because you have this little box does not mean that it’s the only way. I would like to see the trainers work together and support each other, and most here do, except for Jerry. You’re in it for the money, and that’s it….except for the not quite so occasional spurts of childish crap that you get into with some others here. That is amusing, at best. Alot of testosterone flying, silly swearing and name calling, but no real intelligent outcome. What is the purpose?? No one will win! I feel like putting you over my knee and giving you a good spanking, and I don’t even spank my own kids!! Or maybe you could sell me a black box to calm me down everytime I see one of your SCREAMING POST TITLES!!!! JUST SHUT UP!!!!! ARRRRRRRRRRGH! Lori Peters
Response:
Jerry writes of Bob writing: > Start by only taking the food away when you have something more attractive > to offer, i.e. something that tastes and smells better than the dog is > presently eating. The dog should learn that "all good things come from > people". >I don’t do that, but I won’t condemn the method, except to say that I don’t >think the dog is going to care what you’re offering him. I wouldn’t recommend >that for someone who doesn’t have all the tools they need to be able to pull >that off.
get you bitten. First and foremost, the dog needs leadership. That means a relationship with the owner which helps the dog understand that the human makes the rules, not vice versa. When working directly with food or object aggression, ADDING TO the food while the dog is eating is a much better approach than taking the food away. The dog learns that the hand provides, not threatens. Of course, the dog doesn’t get to eat without permission to begin with. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Now, if after 4 or 5 days of this the dog persists in reacting to you or > anyone else with the warning body language and growl you are going to have > to get physical. >Do not pass go. Go Directly to jail. Pass up two turns. Draw one community >service card, do your penance, and try again, on something less risky, like >housebreaking. > As soon as the dog shows the adverse behaviour sieze it by > the cheeks, firmly, and count to ten by twos (2!, 4! ….) in a very low >and > angry voice, shaking mildly. >Don’t let me catch you doing that, unless you’d like the same from me. > Push the dog away, take the food away and don’t > have anything to do with the dog for at least 15 minutes. Replace the food > and repeat the exercise. If the dog still reacts warningly escalate with > louder "growls" and sharper shaking. >You suggest we teach the dog to escalate violence? You recommend this to >people >with a ten month old Chow/Spitz? You recommend this, knowing they are >planning >to have a child? >You ever heard of allelomimetic behavior? Better find out about that stuff, >it’s >pretty solid science. >Howe long you been training dogs? You sound like janet boss.
someone is with no basis. This is never something I would ever do nor recommend. This kind of "correction" will get someone bitten, and probably rather badly. The goal is for the dog to not find the owner (or any other human for that metter) to be a threat to their ability to eat their meal. Nothing is gained by this heavy handedness. If more people started off on the right paw way before this pup reached this stage, this could be avoided. In the case of a dog acquired at this age, the first day home should have been more structured. Janet Boss<BR> Best Friends Dog Obedience<BR> "Nice Manners for the Family Pet"<BR> <BR> "Second-hand dogs AREN’T second-rate"
Response:
Helloo bob, you blew it. I take back the compliment I sent you on an earlier post. > This is a common trait for females when warning a pup that it should cease > and desist it’s bothering behaviour, the female usually growls and snaps > without making contact.
True. > Your dog has to learn that such behaviour is > absolutely unacceptable.
Yes, but not in so many words. The concept is a little more complicated than teaching that a behavior is unacceptable. We need to eradicate the thought, not punish the behavior. > By the ways, Chows are noted "face biters’ and > their owners should always be aware of the dog’s propensity to "snap" at > people who place their faces too close to the dog.
Any dog is likely to do that. > Start by only taking the food away when you have something more attractive > to offer, i.e. something that tastes and smells better than the dog is > presently eating. The dog should learn that "all good things come from > people".
I don’t do that, but I won’t condemn the method, except to say that I don’t think the dog is going to care what you’re offering him. I wouldn’t recommend that for someone who doesn’t have all the tools they need to be able to pull that off. > Now, if after 4 or 5 days of this the dog persists in reacting to you or > anyone else with the warning body language and growl you are going to have > to get physical.
Do not pass go. Go Directly to jail. Pass up two turns. Draw one community service card, do your penance, and try again, on something less risky, like housebreaking. > As soon as the dog shows the adverse behaviour sieze it by > the cheeks, firmly, and count to ten by twos (2!, 4! ….) in a very low and > angry voice, shaking mildly.
Don’t let me catch you doing that, unless you’d like the same from me. > Push the dog away, take the food away and don’t > have anything to do with the dog for at least 15 minutes. Replace the food > and repeat the exercise. If the dog still reacts warningly escalate with > louder "growls" and sharper shaking.
You suggest we teach the dog to escalate violence? You recommend this to people with a ten month old Chow/Spitz? You recommend this, knowing they are planning to have a child? You ever heard of allelomimetic behavior? Better find out about that stuff, it’s pretty solid science. Howe long you been training dogs? You sound like janet boss. > My experience is that this procedure has stopped almost all cases of food > aggression, but in extreme cases I’ve had to recommend that the child must > come first and if the dog doesn’t learn the lesson, get rid of the dog.
There you go. Go Directly to jail. Stay there. You’re out of method. You can afford to tell people "well, it didn’t work, kill the dog, it was genetic, start over?" I can’t afford the luxury of disposing of dogs when I run out of smarts. > Good luck Randy. > – Bob
Howe the hell can you say good luck, after giving them a prescription for disaster? Until you learn appropriate methods to deal with that kind of behavior, I suggest you stick to teaching people howe housebreak their puppies. Relax, I’ll keep an eye on your posts to make sure you don’t screw that up too. If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. Do you enjoy scruff shaking and challenging aggressive behavior to continue? Do you understand howe much a Chow/Spitz is going to turn on to that kind of treatment? Obviously you don’t. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, shock, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Here, Bob, you know the drill: http://www.doggydoright.com Read the manual, try again. I’m in your corner, really, but don’t forget, a cornered animal is the most dangerous. Protect yourself with information, you’ll do O.K. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
> I wonder if anyone can provide help. My dog is a spitz mix, with > perhaps some chow (her tongue is partly black). She was found by > my wife in a litter outside her office. > But one problem we still have
with her is that when she gets > a real good bone or toy in her mouth, she’ll growl when we try > to take it from her. This is usually preceeded by what we call > her “vampire face.” > > On Saturday, we were at our favorite lunch place with outdoor > seating and took Xena along. She’s been there many times before > and is always very well behaved. A little boy (about 3) came > up and asked us if our dog liked to be petted and where. My > wife told him, on the sides and on the nose and on the head. > The little boy hardly touched her when Xena suddenly without > warning bit the air in front of the boy (not making any contact > with the boy) and made her vampire face.
This is a common trait for females when warning a pup that it should cease and desist it’s bothering behaviour, the female usually growls and snaps without making contact. Your dog has to learn that such behaviour is absolutely unacceptable. By the ways, Chows are noted "face biters’ and their owners should always be aware of the dog’s propensity to "snap" at people who place their faces too close to the dog. Start by only taking the food away when you have something more attractive to offer, i.e. something that tastes and smells better than the dog is presently eating. The dog should learn that "all good things come from people". Now, if after 4 or 5 days of this the dog persists in reacting to you or anyone else with the warning body language and growl you are going to have to get physical. As soon as the dog shows the adverse behaviour sieze it by the cheeks, firmly, and count to ten by twos (2!, 4! ….) in a very low and angry voice, shaking mildly. Push the dog away, take the food away and don’t have anything to do with the dog for at least 15 minutes. Replace the food and repeat the exercise. If the dog still reacts warningly escalate with louder "growls" and sharper shaking. My experience is that this procedure has stopped almost all cases of food aggression, but in extreme cases I’ve had to recommend that the child must come first and if the dog doesn’t learn the lesson, get rid of the dog. Good luck Randy. – Bob
Response:
I wonder if anyone can provide help. My dog is a spitz mix, with perhaps some chow (her tongue is partly black). She was found by my wife in a litter outside her office. At first, we had alot of problems establishing dominance with biting and mouthing. But after puppy obedeince class and beginning obedience class, this is not a problem anymore. She has becoming a very sweet dog, very excitable when our friends come around (wanting to jump everyone and lick them). She’s 10 months old now and has learned all the basic obedience commands fairly well: sit, down, sit-stay, down-stay, come. But one problem we still have with her is that when she gets a real good bone or toy in her mouth, she’ll growl when we try to take it from her. This is usually preceeded by what we call her “vampire face.” So we practice giving her bones and then taking them away. On Saturday, we were at our favorite lunch place with outdoor seating and took Xena along. She’s been there many times before and is always very well behaved. A little boy (about 3) came up and asked us if our dog liked to be petted and where. My wife told him, on the sides and on the nose and on the head. The little boy hardly touched her when Xena suddenly without warning bit the air in front of the boy (not making any contact with the boy) and made her vampire face. The little boy was hardly aware that this had happened, but we quickly sent him away and disciplined the dog, putting her in a down-stay. This behavior is very frightening to us, as we are having a child in the fall (our first). What can we do to prevent this from happening or to train the dog that this is unacceptable behavior? I work with the dog every day and will do whatever I can. Thanks, Randy
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